Showing posts with label Upper Mustang. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Upper Mustang. Show all posts

Monday, June 3, 2013

Surprise! Unexpected food items while trekking in Nepal


Top 10 Awesome Food-finds during our Nepal Trek


Although the food is not too shabby in Nepal, there is a severe lack of variety and it gets old very quickly when you are trekking. The staple items on a trekking guesthouse menu are variations of: potatoes, pasta, rice and bread. 

For example, you can get noodles (pasta) with egg, noodles with veg and egg, noodles plain or noodles with chicken (if you're lucky). Same goes for the other carbs. 

Since we were on a 33-day trek, these options got boring rather quickly so we'd get really excited about new items. 




Here are the top 10 awesome finds:



1. Mustard! 

We only found it ONCE at a restaurant so we ordered burgers to go with the mustard. 

Most condiments are basically constrained to ketchup, salt perhaps some pepper and that was really it, unless honey counts. 

I normally would not have yellow mustard- opting instead for a more proper stone ground or at least a dijon. But, haveing seen no mustard in more than a month, it was a great find! 

This one was from Florida, USA out of all places.


2. Salad [that doesn't give you diarrhea]

Fresh vegetables are almost unheard of so finding a salad is like hitting the jackpot. Once you find it, it won't be that amazing though, as it will be mostly cabbage, onions, some carrots and tomatoes. 

Israeli salad: the best during the trek
The best salad I ever had was an 'israeli' salad that had actual oil and vinegar; this was in Muktinath. 

It's best not to eat raw vegetables though. I found out the hard way when I ordered my third salad during the trek and had severe food poisoning. 

The reason? 

Fresh vegetables should be washed with iodine water and it's not always done. 

The result, of course, is ingesting various sorts of contaminants that will get you sick in no time. 

3. Fresh Fruit! 

Even canned fruit was extremely difficult to find. Coming across fresh fruit only happened once to us in the town of Tatopani (tato is hot and pani is water in Nepali; Tatopani has natural hot springs, quite naturally!). 

Sometimes they would store apples and serve the with our breakfast porridge or fry them up as apple fritters (or in the unfortunate apple salad which consisted of chopped up apples completely smothered in mayonnaise [note: I hate mayo]). 

We were so excited about the fresh fruit that we had it for dinner and we also bought 10 bananas to bring along with us for the next few days. 

4. Yoghurt.

Most of the yoghurt is home made and was very hard to find. We found it once in the eastern region of Upper Mustang and it was delicious! 

We had it for dessert after dinner and then pre-ordered it for breakfast with muesli the following morning. 

We make out own yoghurt at home and we were really missing it so this was a real treat!
Homemade with honey, delicious!
... and topping it off w/muesli, yes!

5. Dark Chocolate Swirl Croissant.

What? Hells yes! We found this delicious pastry at a quirky cool place called Yac Donald's in Kagbeni.  
Every bite was ... heaven

They have an extensive menu and offer all kinds of fresh yak meat. Fresh yak meat is not always available. Even though there are a lot of free range, grass eating yak, many areas (such as Manang) do not kill yak for consumption, they only eat the meat if the yak has died (e.g. old, dead meat). 

Anyway, back to the croissant: it was actually a legit croissant and I savored every single bite. The dark chocolate in lieu of crappy milk chocolate was a complete but welcoming surprise. 

6. Organic fresh brewed coffee.

NOT instant coffee. That's a great start. Organic, freshly ground and brewed coffee was proudly brought to us by Yac Donald's in Kagbeni which was a nice break of the tea routine even though tea in Nepal was absolutely delicious. 

Major score! Thanks again, Yac Donald's!

We also had fresh seabuck thorn juice, yak cheese and organic toast to go along w/the coffee!


7. Ice-cold Coca-Cola. Everywhere.  

I never drink soda because I have a really hard time stomaching the insanely unhealthy amount of sugar in it. 

However, Nepal was a huge exception (I think we were burning plenty of calories each day to justify it). 

My stomach was unhappy for at least 30% of the trek and those ice cold bubbles and the rush of caffeine and the slight sugar high was just an amazing feeling when I was feeling so crappy. 

Coca-Cola has Pepsi beat in Nepal!

8. Apple cider.

Marpha is a cute little town full of apple orchards and there are tons of home-made apple cider. Marpha was the first town we walked to after we finished our Upper Mustang portion of the trek -- and it marked the beginning of our ABC portion. Apparently, a group of Germans helped to teach the locals how to make cider from apples. 

We bought a few bottles that we carried with us in our Nalgene to our next stop.  
Thanks, Germans!



9. Wild orange raspberries!

I had never seen these before! We picked them off a bush and they tasted delicious! 

The taste was actually more like a raspberry/blackberry hybrid - not too sweet or tart, just right. Whatever it was, it was so refreshing to just have something raw and fresh. 

[ps: please let me know if you know the actual name of this great berry if you happen to know it]

10. Apple pie dumpling.

We didn't technically find it, we suggested the chef at our guesthouse in Lower Pisang make it. And she did! 

Although she refused to try our strange concoction, the chef agreed to make it. She stuffed a dumpling with minced apple and spices. She steamed the dumplings and then we ate them with honey - what a delicious treat! 

Honorable Mention: Marijuana.


No, we didn't smoke it or eat it but we were actually surprised to find so much marijuana growing everywhere. 

After all, it's a weed!





Monday, May 27, 2013

So this is what life was like two thousand years ago...

“I raise my head and see a red illuminated EXIT sign and as my eyes adjust I see tigers, cavemen with long spears, cavewomen wearing strategically modest skins, wolfish dogs. My heart is racing and for a liquor-addled moment I think Holy shit, I've gone all the way back to the Stone Age until I realize that EXIT signs tend to congregate in the twentieth century.”
- Audrey Niffenegger, The Time Traveler's Wife


The Mustang 'highway'
Think the Grand Canyon is cool? There's a hidden a region right smack in the middle of the Himalayas directly south of Tibet that consists of a huge system of canyons that make the Grand Canyon look like a children's playground!

We had crossed Thorong pass and were ready to start the second part of our 33-day trek. Upper Mustang is the Grand Canyon on steroids, a place where Tibetan traditions still rule every aspect of life and subsistence farming is the main economic activity. 

Today, Upper Mustang is "little Tibet" and, according to many, is actually more Tibetan than Tibet itself. For the most part, the religious and cultural traditions in Upper Mustang are as strong as they were thousands of years ago. Until very recently, Upper Mustang was actually the independent himalayan Kingdom of Lo and was only officially integrated into Nepal a few decades ago. The only way to access the region is by hiking for days along hard mountain trails.

Given the historical and cultural uniqueness of the region, we made visiting Upper Mustang an absolute priority, especially because new roads will be built very soon and the region will be changed forever. Visitors must pay the Nepalese government a hefty minimum $500 USD fee and hire a guide in order to enter this protected region.

National Geographic did a special on the caves here
We arranged all of this prior to starting our trek and on day 13 of our 33 day hike, we ventured into Upper Mustang. Our guide, Karma, is an Upper Mustangi from the small village of Samar and he guided us on an unbelievable 12 day hike throughout the ancient kingdom. We often stayed in people's homes and we even attended a wedding in Karma's village!


What struck us the most about Upper Mustang is how untouched it all felt. Goatherds still herd goats the way their ancestors did thousands of years ago, dry wood is burned in mud ovens to cook food and boil water and running water and electricity are both luxuries that are hard to find. Karma said that there are even many peaks and paths that have never even been summited or explored!

The people of Upper Mustang are extremely devoted to their religion and traditions - we saw monks everywhere and butter and fresh pine offerings were made on a daily basis. Cows are sacred so they are not eaten, instead their milk is used for religious ceremonies and to make butter. Sometimes, if you're lucky, you can even get fresh home-made yogurt (we were lucky enough to find it twice!). Temples abound: we even hiked two hours up to temples that were carved directly out of rocky cliffs!

The region is famous for it's ancient cave dwellings. Constructed more than two thousand five hundred years ago, these complexes are carved into vertical cliffs and are often five stories tall! They were built to be highly defensible and the local villages have used them for centuries since to avoid the Tibetan raiders that would occasionally invade during the Middle Ages. We actually got to clamber around in one of the caves that was only six kilometers from the Tibetan border.

Inside one of the cave monasteries
Upper Mustangis are also some of the hardest-working people we have ever met. In order to go anywhere or even get anything, you gotta walk. If you're 80 years-old and feel sick, tough luck: chances are you gotta walk 8 hours to the nearest hospital (we actually walked into a very old woman who had just crossed a 4000 meter pass by herself to go to a hospital and she was asking us if we had any medicine for her knees because they were hurting; unfortunately we did not). In order to eat, you gotta grow your own food or pay a hefty fee to have goods brought up on mules. If you want to cook, you better go stock up on wood because that's the only source of heat you'll find. And, to survive the incredibly harsh winters, you gotta dry up all your veggies because nothing will grow during winter. As a matter of fact, winters are so harsh that most residents, students and monks opt to leave Upper Mustang for 'holidays' in the warmer Pokhara or Kathmandu cities. When we reached the capital of Upper Mustang, Lo Manthang, the acquifers were frozen so there was no running water. Keep in mind that this was already April!

As the region continues to develop, it won't remain untouched for much longer. We feel immensely lucky that we had the opportunity to do a little time travel and fully imerse ourselves in this wonderfully unique culture.


Our guide, Karma Mustangi, was exceptional. Contact him at karmakurt@hotmail.com to arrange your own adventure in Upper Mustang.


Co-posted on www.eliotpeper.com



Here are some more pictures from our time in Upper Mustang (pronounced 'moos-TENG'):

Welcoming landscape on our first day in Upper Mustang

Erosion creates a lot of natural beauty


Upper Mustang is full of amazing contrasts
Eastern Upper Mustang - we were first foreign visitors in 2013!

A room in a local home


A Tibetan/Mustangi wedding in Samar





Hundreds of goats are found everywhere (unfortunately, they don't make goat cheese --yet!!)


The air was so cool, crisp and clean!

Dramatic Scenery is the norm in Upper Mustang
We were just 6km away from the Tibet border; many Tibetan refugees try to make it to Upper Mustang
At a very, very windy pass on our way to Lo Manthang, Upper Mustang's capital "city"

A prayer wheel in one of the local villages (very important to go clock-wise!)

Two young monks at a cliff-top monastery in eastern Upper Mustang (very, very few trekkers come here)
The orange 'box' is a the monastery built on the cliff!
A goat's skull is used at the entrance of a local village
These are 2,500 year-old caves, very close to the Tibetan border (you can see the small 'holes' on the cliff)
These are sacred walls and must always be walked on the left


A great use for an old trekking pole, this woman was at least 90 years old


Human porters are often used instead of mules, this is a 100kg (200 lbs!) on a man's back. The journey can last up to a month, up and down very rough terrain in altitudes that average 4000 meters (13,000 ft)


People are extremely happy!
In a traditional kitchen, we were greeted with delicious 'dud chia' or milk tea
A local water pump where villagers come to fill up water containers
We would often walk into goat herders; this is a 1-hour old baby goat!

The road less traveled 
























Wednesday, March 20, 2013

The 35 day trek

During our 35 day trek, I won't be able to post much. Come back in mid-April to learn all about our awesome trek through Annapurna Circuit, Upper Mustang and ABC!